Surf Forecast  Teahupoo

Teahupoo surfspot characteristics

More about Teahupoo surfspot

Every once in a while a new spot bursts into the surf world's psyche and totally redefines what is possible and where the limits are. Teahupoo has roared out of the deep blue and gobbled up all contenders snatching the belt and the crown for the 'World's Heaviest Wave'. Many surfers will remember their first glimpse of this freak of nature, most probably encapsulated by the infamous Laird Hamilton tow-in shots that graced the cover of many surf mags in 2000. What sets Teahupoo aside is the sheer power and ferocity of the incoming S swell that throws more out than up, once it reaches the overhead range. Maximum size is a moot point as it makes a mockery of most face measurements, containing a lip a few feet thick and a shape more rectangular than almond. More S in the swell will calm the beast slightly, but it is the straight on SW'ers that slam the reef and open up the caverns along the short 75-100m run for your life line-up. It's all about the drop really, which is more critical here than anywhere else and those able to set an early rail into the gasping tubes will do better. Mistakes are swiftly and properly punished as the highly visible reef runs close to dry so quickly, pushing the unlucky ones into the lagoon and the coral is famed for infecting cuts. When it's smaller and from the W, there is even the odd right, a la Backdoor, but dont get caught paddling back out. Teahupoo consistently pulls in more swell than anywhere on Tahiti, but getting the ideal NE wind is less common, especially in the high season.

General: There can be only one "world's heaviest wave", and that title rests soundly with the wave at Teahupo'o (don't make saying it more difficult than it need be; it's pronounced Cho-poo). Along the southern end of the smaller of Tahiti's two extinct volcanoes, Tahiti Iti, the tiny town of Teahupo'o is where the pavement stops. Surfers have sampled the South Pacific island since the early 1960s, but prior to the mid-'80s, surfers had no reason to venture that far, especially considering the wealth of hollow reef breaks encircling the rest of the island. Consider that all Bruce Brown and crew got out of Tahiti was "Ins and Outs", a piddly mushburger that bounces off a bulkhead and can be ridden seaward. But one day, a few locals ventured out on a small swell and found that the wave at the end of the road was within the realm of possibility.</br></br>Physically, nothing has changed since then, but with the increased attention the wave has stirred, Teahupo'o has become a well-trod yet still undercover surf destination. No hotels stand within an hour's drive, and the nearest surf shop is almost as far. If you're looking for a McDonald's you'd better not leave Papeete. But the main ingredients are in abundance -- warm water, friendly locals, and an endlessly challenging wave.</br></br>Teahupo'o is no different from any of the other reef passes around Tahiti -- that is, if they were all pumped on steroids, coffee, and Megadeth. The reef here is very much alive, as you will find out soon after brushing against it for the first time. Infections of the bloodstream are as common as mosquito bites, so a good cleansing is imperative after any break in the skin. Treated properly, you won't have to sit in the boat for long.</br></br>There's very little swell attenuation thanks to a complete lack of continental shelf outside the breaks, which explains why Teahupo'o is often way bigger than anywhere else -- it faces directly into the prevailing southwest swell. But there are a number of high quality breaks and passes along the west and southwest shores of the island. On the drive from Papeete to Teahupo'o, you'll pass Ta'apuna (a lovely clean left with a swinging end bowl, good to six feet), Sapenuse (a reef-based point break, popular among longboarders, with an outside section capable of handling horrendous Teahupo'o-style action), Papara'a (the sole beachbreak on the island and center of Tahiti's social beach life), and the lesser-known Mara'a and Vairao passes, along with several other semi-passes and reef bumps where fun waves can be ridden without absolute danger to life or limb.</br></br>Teahupo'o breaks the mold, not only for Tahiti, but for the world as we known it. Millions of years ago, freshwater flowing from nearby mountains killed a large section of the surrounding reef, creating what is known as Passa Hava'e. The surf along the western side forms an unrideable closeout, but then again, that's what they said about Teahupo'o not so long ago. Teahupo'o's reef is shaped like your left arm if you're looking at your watch. The inside of your arm forms the lagoon while swells approach your upper arm from the left side. Depending on the angle, the wave either forms a flawless barrel or an inescapable nightmare. The more south the swell is, the better your chances of survival.</br></br>The lineup is relatively small, maybe seventy-five yards in all, and there are really only two legitimate takeoff spots. Anything else is an invitation for disaster. The first, requiring loads of confidence and speed to burn, is located behind the main barrel section. It provides an easier entry, but your options from this spot are reduced: pull in or get snuffed. If you are well versed in riding left hand barrels, it's a dream wave. If there's any hitch in your getup, say goodnight.</br></br>From the other takeoff spot, closer toward the shoulder but still within the peak of the end section, the drop is more critical, but you are afforded a measure of leeway. If for some reason you pass on the barrel, a few carves and a kick out provide a reasonable alternative. However, this is the shallowest section of a freakishly hollow wave, so plan on getting barreled or stick to another pass around the island. A mistake here and you will become intimate with the shallowest section of the reef.</br></br>Occasionally, surfers take off either ridiculously deep or cautiously far on the shoulder. Neither is advised. From way back, the wave often bottoms out upon takeoff, ensuring a freefall into oblivion. If the drop is properly negotiated, a frothy barrel is possible, but the paddle back out could unceremoniously end your session. On the other hand, a shoulder takeoff is sort of like trying to hit a baseball once it is already in the catcher's mitt. You've missed the perfect pitch, and even if you make contact, it's nothing but a dribbler. Either go deep or not at all.</br></br>Regardless of takeoff positioning, the ride at Teahupo'o is a short one. A barrel and one turn is pretty much maximum capacity. Any more and a reef dance becomes a near-certainty. But with such intensity, you won't hear anyone complain about the length of ride. It would take a full ride at Jeffreys Bay to equal the rush.</br></br>An interesting trait of Teahupo'o -- and one that increases its brute force -- is that regardless of size the wave pretty much breaks in the same place. There is no third reef to diffuse the intensity of massive swells; rather, everything piles up on the inside reef, creating a top-heavy, below sea-level mutant that you wouldn't conjure even while doodling in high school. Tides: All tides. Size: Head high-quadruple overhead Wind: NE, E Swell: S, SW Bottom: Live coral. Paddling: Medium but heavy if paddling from shore. Spot Rating: One of the heaviest barrels in the world.

Advanced

30 minute paddle out to the reef or a short boat ride. If it's big there will be too much current in the channel to paddle anywhere.

April-October

Crowd Factor: Fairly light when smaller, becoming more crowded with pros during good swells. Very crowded each year during WSL event (currently late August). Local Vibe: Mellow if you're respectful. Heavy if you aren't.

Hazards like sharks, motorised traffic, the long paddle, crowds, localism and sunburn are nothing compared to the wave and the reef. There's a beachbreak at the rivermouth for the kids and it sometimes holds up a nice right wall for turns and airs, giving an opt out for most mortals that shouldn't really be attempting big Teahupoo.

Clean

Shallow live reef, strong inside currents when big, ferocious wave, the sneaky inside right catching you in the channel if you aren't paying attention. Believe us...that's enough.