Bono, Teluk Meranti, Riau surf guide
Surf: Indonesia's version of a river bore wave is predictably world-class, taking the gentle art of cruising along a knee-high, freshwater crumbler and super-charging it. Instead of large heavy longboards to traverse the deep, fat sections, the Bono allows shortboards on the speedy, endlessly walled sections and even offers some brown room barrels for those with the skills and balls to take on the heavy, shallow, close-to-the-riverbank sections. However different sections of the wave provide varying quality and wave shape, so longboarding, SUP, kneeboarding, kayaking and surf skis can all join in the fun. Experts pumping a shortboard will get tired over the 40kms from Pulau Muda to the deepwater beginners sections that finish and start either side of Teluk Meranti and the current record for 1 continuous wave is just over 1hr. Spending time lying down in the whitewash and dragging fins in the mud is a given when river levels are low. You can also get a battering in the zodiacs while negotiating the maelstrom of crosswaves and whelps (smaller following waves) when picking up fallers and getting back in front of the Bono to catch it again can be tricky.
Environment: The Rip Curl search dubbed it the Seven Ghosts, but there is no mystery about it as there will be a big bono and small bono alternating between night and day every full and new moon, translating to a potential 100 surf days a year. The wave usually arrives within 15mins each side of the predicted time and the early and late months of the year are often the best. Hazards are avoiding floating logs and trees and taking care in the boats. Crocs avoid the Bono and boats. Staying in the basic accommodation of Teluk Meranti and walking round the village when it goes underwater is all part of this unique surfing experience that all surfers should try at least once.