Overview
Cloudbreak is a legendary left-hand reef pass in the Mamanucas, and one of the most demanding waves on the planet. It was once the exclusive domain of well-heeled surfers paying the daily rate at the Tavarua Island surf resort, until the Fijian government changed the law that let the resort control access. The perfect pictures suggest flawless left barrels for everyone, but the reality is a tricky wave with multiple sections and a malevolent side that keeps even the best surfers on their toes.
The reef splits into three distinct sections. The outside "Point" holds plenty of size, with vertiginous roll-ins leading into a flying wall where speed carves are possible. Middles is where turns matter less and the barrel starts to wind up, covering a lot of distance in a short time. Insides, better known as Shish-kabobs, is where the reef gets extremely shallow and the tubes get extremely extreme. The three sections rarely link up, but when they do, usually on a long-period south-southwest swell of epic proportions, it is one of the seven wonders of the surf world.
When It Works
The pass draws swell from south through west, with southwest the best match. It works from 0.9 m / 3 ft to 7.6 m / 25 ft, so there is enormous range here, and the wave is consistent enough to reward a trip built around it.
Wind and Tide
Look for southeast offshore wind. The reef can work through most of the tide, with a rising tide generally the better call.
Local Tips
This is expert territory. You need to be able to deal with heavy waves, strong currents and the bump-inducing frisky trades, and the lineup gets busy when it turns on. Less confident surfers who think they can pick off a few on the inside will not find any easy rides, and the fingers of reef out there are far less uniform than further out.
The hazards are real. The live coral is slasher sharp and cuts have a tendency to flare up. The reef attracts fauna best avoided, including sea snakes, stonefish and the odd well-fed shark. The unavoidable bogieman, though, is the sun.
Access
Getting out here means negotiating a seat in a boat, for a handsome sum. Once you have, take plenty of water, sunscreen and a surf hat.
