Surf Forecast  Waimea Bay

Waimea Bay surfspot characteristics

More about Waimea Bay surfspot

The benchmark, big-wave forum of Hawaii’s North Shore. Although somewhat eclipsed by outer reef tow-in breaks, mere mortals will find the 20-25ft (6-8m) swells that Waimea can provide more than enough of a challenge. Deep water swells arrive suddenly, tripping on a lava shelf sitting a good 100m+ out from the northern headland. This creates a wave that lurches violently up, then out, resulting in the famous Waimea air drop take-off, followed by an endless plunge over boils, chops and gutters to the trough, then a race to the channel, chased by hundreds of tons of water. Strong trades, funneling down Waimea Valley are far from ideal, getting under the nose of your gun and holding you in a lip that’s renowned for thick, high psi power, so light ESE wind is best, mid tide and a long period NW swell. On smaller days below 15ft (5m), when The Bay proper isn't working, a sandbar and boulder section called Pinballs can reel off some juicy little pockets right along the lava rock point. Waimea's shorebreak is a gnarly mix of crashing lips and powerful pockets; once avoided, today it's packed with suicidal bodyboarders and even a few stand-up surfers. Getting in and out of the water requires timing through the shorebreak in the northern corner, while the overpowering current drags victims down to the jump rock. Crowds are thick, especially at the starting size around 15ft and sharing a set is common practice although flying boards and bodies heighten the risks. Specialist equipment, big wave experience and total commitment required.

General: Waimea's outer waters are very deep and clear of any outer reefs or shoals. As a result, much of the energy of long period swells is refracted away from the Bay by the flanking outer reefs at Alligators and Log Cabins, leaving Waimea in a bit of a swell void. This can make the place appear deceptively calm during the early stages of a big swell, compared to some of the other nearby spots. As the interval falls within the mid-period bands, watch for more swell energy to pour into the Bay. On big and longer period swells, Waimea will actually peak later than some of the other nearby spots of which favor the initial longer period energy. </br></br>When Waimea starts to work, look for the bay to turn into a massive washing machine, where water floods in along each side of the Bay and a big rip current pulls out to sea in the center. Meanwhile, it's the big waves breaking way out off the top of the point on the northside of the bay that is the world renown spot. In contrast to all this mad aquatic activity going on further inside the bay, the actual takeoff zone can be quite mellow between sets.</br></br>Rideable waves first begin to break when the surf climbs into the overhead to double overhead-plus zone on a section known as Pinballs -- a lumpy reef almost parallel with the tip of the Bay's north point that can be fun on clean NW swells with a light tradewind blowing. As the swell grows beyond 3-4 times overhead, waves begin to peak and break just inside a big boil 80 yards out past Pinballs, providing a drop, a fat shoulder and some reform shots further in. As the surf increases further, waves will starting breaking on the shallower regions of the true Waimea takeoff area -- a relatively flat lava rock ledge another 50 yards or so outside the boil that lurches abruptly from much deeper water. It's the sudden appearance of this ledge, magnifying the challenge of a late drop, that gives Waimea its characteristic semi-freefall takeoff. The ledge slopes off rapidly to the west but maintains a slight ridge out toward the north, sometimes (particularly on a more northerly angled swell) forming a takeoff spot further out known as Eddie's Peak. After a complex and exhilarating drop, the rider is faced with a flat shoulder and a mountain of whitewater, which can sometimes be pursued into the Pinballs section. Toward the beach, waves will back off and reform into an extremely powerful shorebreak, growing thicker and bigger toward the western end and sometimes showcasing a hideously tempting left barrel.</br></br>Getting in and out is done through the keyhole, located close to the rocks in the northeast corner of the bay, where the shorebreak is smallest. On smaller days it's a cruise, but will start to require a little timing as it gets bigger. Trying to come in through the shorebreak toward the southern end of the bay is not recommended; several surfers have made the Bay Loop famous (the process of heading right back out to sea and around again in order to nail the keyhole exit). Tides: Medium Size: 4X overhead and larger Wind: Calm or light to moderate ENE to S. Swell: WNW to NW Bottom: Reef Paddling: Besides the long paddle out there, the paddling is not too bad once you're in the line-up. However, getting into these bigger/faster moving waves can be challenging, especially when the trades are strong. Spot Rating: Waimea has always been and always will be a big-wave surfers proving ground.

Expert big-wave surfers only, even they need to exercise extreme caution.

Easy: But when the Bay is breaking, parking in the Waimea Bay parking lot and along Kam Highway can become nearly impossible.

Winter

Crowd Factor: Heavy Local Vibe: Humility and respect a must.

Parking is a nightmare when the swell jumps with the Kam choked by stationary cars looking for somewhere to stop and watch the show from. Walk in from further afield.

Clean for the most part, until the rivermouth opens up in the bay.

Because Waimea only breaks on the big swells, every wave is extremely dangerous. The shorebreak. Dirty water during heavy rainfall.