Surf: A ferry plies the 2 km wide El Rio straits to Isla Graciosa the smallest inhabited islands of the archipelago (27km/sq) and part of the Parque Nacional de los Islotes del Norte, which includes the uninhabited and out of bounds smaller islands of Montaña Clara, Roque del Este/Oeste and Alegranza. Playa de las Conchas is the only long beach, a 1.5hr walk to the north-western shore, but it is more of a tourist beach and the surfing conditions are poor. There are several heavy reefs dotted around the island but this is a super hard-core place where the reefs are really sharp, shallow and urchin infested, making entry and exit a real hassle. Many of the waves are experts only and the locals from both the island and by the boatload from Lanzarote are not very gracious. Expect severe hassles and remember how isolated Graciosa is. Directions: Catch ferry from Orzola. No cars allowed. Freecampin on beach is doable but locals may throw stones at tourists. Environment: There are no roads, only dirt or sand tracks so options include the 4X4 taxi service, hiking in or renting mountain bikes at the harbour in Caleta del Sebo, where there’s a couple of simple pensiónes, bar-restaurants, supermarkets, a bank ATM, a post office and an internet café for the 700 permanent residents.