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Pavones

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Ideal surf conditions at Pavones

Swell window
S, SW
Best swell direction
S
Swell size
5ft - 10ft
Swell breaks over
Boulders, Sand
Wave types
Point
Wave directions
Left
Wind window
NE
Best tides at
Low, Mid, High
Skill Level
Intermediate
Seasons
Spring, Autumn, Winter
Board types
Shortboard, Fish, Gun

Pavones surf guide

Surf: Insanely long lefts, sectioning down a sandy, cobblestone point, close to shore. Being buried deep in a bay makes it incredibly inconsistent, as only big S-SW swells will penetrate the Golfo Dulce. Modern swell forecasting means plenty of surfers will be on hand when it does work including the locals and expat crew who are notorious for sewing up the best set waves and making it past the hollower low tide rivermouth section all the way down to the cantina where the breakneck speed lets up a bit. This La Esquina del Mar section breaks better at high tide unless it is big, offering rides of up to a kilometre for those quick enough to beat the longer sections. Environment: Main problem is the crowd and jelly-legs, which get little respite on the long hot walk back up the point. Roads wash out readily in the wet (read swell) season. Surf: General: Pavones has been called the longest left pointbreak in the world, and though Chicama in Peru probably has usurped that distinction, rides of three minutes are possible on a solid S swell -- and that's three minutes of full-on, down-the-line, zero-cutback surfing. It's the kind of wave that will expand your whole scope of riding waves -- especially if you're used to surfing beachbreaks. Your bottom turns are extended 30 yards, and top turns can last longer than some commercials.

The top of the point is west of the rivermouth and acts as the main takeoff zone; as such, it's competitive. If you're lucky enough to get a wave from here, you get three or four semi-bowly sections where you can do a few carves. As you approach the rivermouth the wave speeds up and (depending on the tide) can get super-hollow, so you need to start tucking and pumping and going as fast as your surfboard will carry you. After you pass the rivermouth, the wave slows down again for a bit before tapering perfectly into the bay, as your legs give out (you've surfed almost a mile already). Then you step out onto the sand and slog back up the point for more. But it's fickle as all hell. You could sweat out a month in the middle of primo S swell season and not see a head-high wave, as the spot is tucked pretty far inside the Golfo Dulce. Tides: When it's smaller, it needs a higher tide to link up; once it's a few feet overhead, low tide is better and hollower. Size: Head-high to triple overhead; can handle size quite easily Wind: East, Southeast Swell: S, SSW Bottom: Sand and rock Paddling: You're gonna want to walk back up the point but you'll still be paddling on a solid swell. Spot Rating: When it is on, it's one of the best waves in the world with a series of connected points. The Rivermouth section is the shallowest part of the wave, the rest is just a really good shape and paced wave down the point. Access: Right there behind the soccer field. Crowds: Crowd Factor: Ridiculous, but when it's really cooking you can take off anywhere along the line. Local Vibe: The expats and Ticos have it wired and aren't afraid to remind you of that fact. Environment: Silty from the rain runoff but very clean. Beautiful blue water during the dry season. Hazards: Sets that swing wide when it's pumping, they'll clean out the lineup. Season: May-October

Written by Joris de Ruiter

Joris is a dad, husband, surfer, software developer, yogi and swimmer. He combines his passion for surfing and technology to help others catch more and better waves.

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