Surf: Although fickle and needing a solid NE swell, this long sand bottom point, backed by tropical foliage, can deliver perfect longboard rights on low tides. Directions: After the first (of two) rivers in the E of town, follow the road to the coast. Pay at the fenced beach carpark and walk up to the point. Environment: St Louis du Nord is filled with tin roofed houses painted pink and cream. It’s a musical city with a trend for fixing a car stereo and speakers to the handlebars of imported Chinese Haojin motorbikes and playing radio stations through mobile ’phones. Hundreds of frequencies compete for airspace and public sound systems speed by, preaching rap, reggae and Haitian compas music. Check the Hotel Toi et Moi with peppery taso – fried goat (always trust the goat) and a nightclub where experts dance merengue to the medley of compas horns.